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    <title>This topic</title>
    <link>https://community.bt.com/t5/Home-setup-Wi-Fi-network/Which-set-up-would-be-best/m-p/2386991#M211027</link>
    <description>&lt;P&gt;I posted this just before I went to bed last night.&amp;nbsp; As no one else has responded and my reply may have seemed a little flippant, I’ll give you a bit more context.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The majority of people in industry will tell you, you only use wireless, (or powerline adapters), when you can’t put wires in for some reason.&amp;nbsp; As with a lot of things, wireless has been sold to the public because it is quick and easy for the provider to install, not because it’s really any good.&amp;nbsp; They can’t be held responsible for connections/speed inside your house anyway, so why should they worry about it.&amp;nbsp; (In fact, as an aside, with FTTP they don’t offer a wireless connection from the ONT to the router.&amp;nbsp; I wonder why?)&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;If you insist on using wireless however, the first thing to do with poor wireless performance is download a network analyser, like inSSIDer, and take a look at what channels are being used locally.&amp;nbsp; Try to pick channels that are not in use, (good luck with that today), or the lesser used channels.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;There are a lot of very clever (minor) error correction techniques in play today, but ultimately if a packet is unreadable the receiving end discards it.&amp;nbsp; When the sending end does not receive an acknowledgement for that packet it will send it again.&amp;nbsp; (It does this a number of times before it gives up).&amp;nbsp; This really screws with the speed.&amp;nbsp; For example, if every other packet needs sending twice that reduces your effective speed by a third.&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;While this applies to both wired and wireless, wireless suffers from the problem far more because of interference from other radio sources &amp;amp; weak signals because of too many walls etc.&amp;nbsp; Not to mention the lag involved in converting from wired format to wireless and back again, encrypting and decrypting, (because anyone can potentially listen in to wireless), etc.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;If you are using 2.4GHz stick to channels 1, 6 or 11.&amp;nbsp; While there appear to be many other channels available, they can cause more problems than they solve.&amp;nbsp; This is because a mechanism exists to allow wireless access points on the same channel to cooperate and share the channel.&amp;nbsp; If you use, say, channel 8 and your neighbour is using 6 they are still close enough to interference but they can’t cooperate and so the problem is actually worse.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Similarly, with 5GHz.&amp;nbsp; Those channels are already four apart and you can use any of them.&amp;nbsp; Most things default to 36 so I would pick 40, 44 or 48.&amp;nbsp; Anything above 48 can potentially clash with radar and if it detects a signal it is obliged to automatically switch to a different channel. &amp;nbsp;This can make those channels unstable.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Another big thing with wireless is the position of the wireless access point.&amp;nbsp; Radio signals do pass through things but only up to a point.&amp;nbsp; Water, metal etc. are very good at absorbing signals, so if you have a radiator, water tank, aquarium, fridge etc. in the way, forget it.&amp;nbsp; In fact, as I understand it, modern plasterboard is foil backed.&amp;nbsp; Ideally the wireless access point needs to be in the centre of the house, fairly high up. &amp;nbsp;(Above head height, as after all, you are merely a bag of water to a radio signal – no offense).&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;One of the advantages of running cable is that you can then put multiple wireless points in different rooms connected to the router by cable.&amp;nbsp; (Keep the same SSID but use different channels to avoid interference, as above).&amp;nbsp; Even if you get a wireless mesh system, using a hardwired backhaul will perform much better.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Oh, and while I think about it, 5GHz is far less able to go through walls etc. than 2.4GHz.&amp;nbsp; On the up-side, the shorter range makes it less prone to interference.&lt;/P&gt;</description>
    <pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2024 14:34:10 GMT</pubDate>
    <dc:creator>WSH</dc:creator>
    <dc:date>2024-06-02T14:34:10Z</dc:date>
    <item>
      <title>Which set up would be best?</title>
      <link>https://community.bt.com/t5/Home-setup-Wi-Fi-network/Which-set-up-would-be-best/m-p/2386917#M211024</link>
      <description>&lt;P&gt;Hi all,&amp;nbsp;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Have a dilemma as to which would be best. I live in a fairly large house and WIFI currently doesn't reach the far end. I'm also sick of all the drop outs we get on WIFI.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;To that end, I want to improve the equipment i have. I have 2 options currently. I'm currently on FTTC.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I currently have ASUS AX5400 that i could just replace the smart hub 2 completely (although i did have an issue setting this up, but this is a separate issue) or&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I could get a better modem than the smart hub and use a MSI RadiX AXE6600 as my router.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I don't always plan to live here so something that would future proof would be better in my opinion.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Any advice would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/P&gt;</description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 01 Jun 2024 20:54:49 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://community.bt.com/t5/Home-setup-Wi-Fi-network/Which-set-up-would-be-best/m-p/2386917#M211024</guid>
      <dc:creator>steviebh</dc:creator>
      <dc:date>2024-06-01T20:54:49Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Which set up would be best?</title>
      <link>https://community.bt.com/t5/Home-setup-Wi-Fi-network/Which-set-up-would-be-best/m-p/2386925#M211025</link>
      <description>&lt;P&gt;If you really want to cure the inconsistent connections, put cat 6 cabling in.&lt;/P&gt;</description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 01 Jun 2024 22:39:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://community.bt.com/t5/Home-setup-Wi-Fi-network/Which-set-up-would-be-best/m-p/2386925#M211025</guid>
      <dc:creator>WSH</dc:creator>
      <dc:date>2024-06-01T22:39:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Which set up would be best?</title>
      <link>https://community.bt.com/t5/Home-setup-Wi-Fi-network/Which-set-up-would-be-best/m-p/2386991#M211027</link>
      <description>&lt;P&gt;I posted this just before I went to bed last night.&amp;nbsp; As no one else has responded and my reply may have seemed a little flippant, I’ll give you a bit more context.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The majority of people in industry will tell you, you only use wireless, (or powerline adapters), when you can’t put wires in for some reason.&amp;nbsp; As with a lot of things, wireless has been sold to the public because it is quick and easy for the provider to install, not because it’s really any good.&amp;nbsp; They can’t be held responsible for connections/speed inside your house anyway, so why should they worry about it.&amp;nbsp; (In fact, as an aside, with FTTP they don’t offer a wireless connection from the ONT to the router.&amp;nbsp; I wonder why?)&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;If you insist on using wireless however, the first thing to do with poor wireless performance is download a network analyser, like inSSIDer, and take a look at what channels are being used locally.&amp;nbsp; Try to pick channels that are not in use, (good luck with that today), or the lesser used channels.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;There are a lot of very clever (minor) error correction techniques in play today, but ultimately if a packet is unreadable the receiving end discards it.&amp;nbsp; When the sending end does not receive an acknowledgement for that packet it will send it again.&amp;nbsp; (It does this a number of times before it gives up).&amp;nbsp; This really screws with the speed.&amp;nbsp; For example, if every other packet needs sending twice that reduces your effective speed by a third.&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;While this applies to both wired and wireless, wireless suffers from the problem far more because of interference from other radio sources &amp;amp; weak signals because of too many walls etc.&amp;nbsp; Not to mention the lag involved in converting from wired format to wireless and back again, encrypting and decrypting, (because anyone can potentially listen in to wireless), etc.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;If you are using 2.4GHz stick to channels 1, 6 or 11.&amp;nbsp; While there appear to be many other channels available, they can cause more problems than they solve.&amp;nbsp; This is because a mechanism exists to allow wireless access points on the same channel to cooperate and share the channel.&amp;nbsp; If you use, say, channel 8 and your neighbour is using 6 they are still close enough to interference but they can’t cooperate and so the problem is actually worse.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Similarly, with 5GHz.&amp;nbsp; Those channels are already four apart and you can use any of them.&amp;nbsp; Most things default to 36 so I would pick 40, 44 or 48.&amp;nbsp; Anything above 48 can potentially clash with radar and if it detects a signal it is obliged to automatically switch to a different channel. &amp;nbsp;This can make those channels unstable.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Another big thing with wireless is the position of the wireless access point.&amp;nbsp; Radio signals do pass through things but only up to a point.&amp;nbsp; Water, metal etc. are very good at absorbing signals, so if you have a radiator, water tank, aquarium, fridge etc. in the way, forget it.&amp;nbsp; In fact, as I understand it, modern plasterboard is foil backed.&amp;nbsp; Ideally the wireless access point needs to be in the centre of the house, fairly high up. &amp;nbsp;(Above head height, as after all, you are merely a bag of water to a radio signal – no offense).&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;One of the advantages of running cable is that you can then put multiple wireless points in different rooms connected to the router by cable.&amp;nbsp; (Keep the same SSID but use different channels to avoid interference, as above).&amp;nbsp; Even if you get a wireless mesh system, using a hardwired backhaul will perform much better.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Oh, and while I think about it, 5GHz is far less able to go through walls etc. than 2.4GHz.&amp;nbsp; On the up-side, the shorter range makes it less prone to interference.&lt;/P&gt;</description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2024 14:34:10 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://community.bt.com/t5/Home-setup-Wi-Fi-network/Which-set-up-would-be-best/m-p/2386991#M211027</guid>
      <dc:creator>WSH</dc:creator>
      <dc:date>2024-06-02T14:34:10Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Which set up would be best?</title>
      <link>https://community.bt.com/t5/Home-setup-Wi-Fi-network/Which-set-up-would-be-best/m-p/2386997#M211028</link>
      <description>&lt;P&gt;I use a Deco M5 mesh network with 3 units.&amp;nbsp; I'm in a large, Victorian house and my system can be received in the park opposite the house.&amp;nbsp;&lt;A href="https://www.tp-link.com/uk/home-networking/deco/deco-m5/#deco" target="_blank"&gt;Deco M5 | AC1300 Deco Whole Home Mesh Wi-Fi System | TP-Link United Kingdom&lt;/A&gt;&lt;/P&gt;</description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2024 14:50:44 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://community.bt.com/t5/Home-setup-Wi-Fi-network/Which-set-up-would-be-best/m-p/2386997#M211028</guid>
      <dc:creator>gspearson</dc:creator>
      <dc:date>2024-06-02T14:50:44Z</dc:date>
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