Using a third party router with Fibre2/FTTC

[Greg66]

I have happily had G-fast broadband with BT (~230Mpbs) for a few years, with a copper phone line. In anticipation of the loss of copper phone lines, BT have kindly "regraded" me (downgraded) me to Fibre 2 (~75Mbps) and Digital Voice. 

I don't need DV. 

In my house I have a twin output master socket - one side for BB and one for phone. The BB side connects to an Openreach modem (MT992) to which I have connected a Netgear router (an old but reliable R7000 AC1900). The router has about 60-70 devices attached to it via switches and wifi, many with assigned IP addresses, and all in the range 192.168.0.xx. 

The Fibre 2 connection comes with a Smarthub2. This dispenses IP addresses in the range 192.168.1.xx, and does the job of a modem and a router. 

If I replace the Openreach Modem and my router with the Smarthub2, various inconvenient consequences follow: I lose access to my NAS drives; I lose access to TV streaming services via Apple TVs; I have lost my Sonos system; I lose access to Alexa: I cannot control my lights and sockets either via their app or by Alexa. This is because of the mismatched IP address ranges. This doesn't really work for me. 

I understand that the Smarthub2 is blocked from attempts to change its IP range. I also understand that consumer grade Smarthub2s - which is what I have - are disabled from being put into bridge mode and turned into pure modems. 

I had assumed I would be able to dispense with the Smarthub2 and could use my router plus the Openreach Modem. But it seems not. When I dig into the Smarthub2, I see that it uses [email protected] and a password (I think "BT") to access the outside world. Using those in my router though doesn't result in an internet connection. Despite trying hard, I cannot get my router to connect to the internet. I am stuck. 

I have spoken to BT this evening, who - putting it bluntly - really could not give a toss. In fact they gave even less of a toss about the problem they have created for me than they gave at the prospect of reducing my download speed by 2/3rds and raking in the same monthly charge from me. They have basically said either use our Smarthub2 or you're on your own. 

My question: is there some trick or setting I am missing in the settings of the Netgear router which will enable it to get an internet connection, when connected to the modem I have? 

[gg30340]

If you are able to move to FTTP and if  you don't use Digital Voice you can use any third party router with a WAN socket that you want.

You just plug that into the Fiber ONT that will be fitted when you move to FTTP instead of plugging in the BT Smarthub into it.

If you are staying on FTTC you just keep using your present set up with the Openreach modem. There is no need to use the BT Smarthub unless you want to have Digital Voice.

EDIT: I see you asked the same thing here.

https://community.bt.com/t5/Archive-Staging/BT-Fibre-100-modem-question/m-p/2093589#M1205778

[Greg66]

Thanks. I really cant recall that 2020 post, though it’s certainly me!

i cant get FTTP. Half of one side of our road doesn’t have it. Openreach have been saying it is coming within 12m, but this week i had an email update to say their plans had changed and now they say they have no plans to install it. 

So I will have FTTC for the foreseeable. 

Which brings me back to my problem. My Openreach modem plus my Netgear router should work, according to what I have read, but it very stubbornly refuses to do so. Which brings me back to my question: is there a setting in the router I am missing?

(A further irritating wrinkle in this is that I can’t export my assigned IP addresses from the router. OTOH a potential solution is to switch to Virgin, who claim to offer >500Mbps via FTTC plus copper to the property, and don’t appear to stipulate the use of a proprietary, locked down, router). 

[Kimberlin]

@Greg66  I’m sure you are aware of this, but that old Netgear AC1900 router you are using, has long reached End of Life support. That router was introduced way back in 2013, so whilst it may be ‘reliable’ it is no longer receiving any security updates and is quite frankly inadequate compared to a router produced in the last couple of years. I have one of those exact routers stuffed in a box in my loft never to see the light of day again. My advice, get rid of the one you have and get something decent.

[Greg66]

I could upgrade the router. But

(a) I don’t see how that would solve the problem I have with connection, other than it being a punt that might (or might not)

(b) doing so would present a variation of the problem I already have with the SH2 and IP addresses around the house (many of which are assigned within the device itself) having to be reconfigured. 

(c) if I end up having to move to Virgin, I may well have to go through (b) as a necessity; if so I’d rather do it once than twice. 

[WSH]

It's quite possible to change the address range on the SH2.

However, it's set to reject anything it thinks is invalid and drop back to the default address.  Make sure what you are attempting to set is valid, including the range being issued by DHCP* and the address of the router itself.  Any problems & it will ignore the settings when you try save to them but it won't bother to tell you.

*This needs to be done even if you subsequently turn off the DHCP.

[Greg66]

That sounds helpful. But how does one change the address range? Last night I tried to change the SH2’s address from 192.168.1.254 to 192.168.0.1, and to change its range of available addresses to 192.168.0.2 to .254, and it was having none of it. 

[WSH]

It's one of the flakier DHCPs I've come across.  The real problem is it doesn't report a problem, it just ignores the new settings.  As I said, you need to change the address AND the address range even if you are not using DHCP AND it all needs to be valid with no mistakes.  Save it.  Go back into it and then turn DHCP off.  Save it again.

[WSH]

In fact, looking at your last post, if you set the SH2 address as 192.168.0.254 and included 254 in the DHCP range that will be invalid.  The last address in the range needs to be 253

[Greg66]

I may have found at least part of the problem. Sometimes it pays to look at the little green lights. 

The MT992’s green DSL light is not coming on when connected to the master socket. It should be backwards compatible but it seems it is not.