sorry , yes No.1
Thank you for the reply. Very educational.
So in that case, could you give me an example of wiring within the master socket that may cause ping to increase or noise on the line etc
i have master socket no 1 as shown out of the 6 master sockets.
im convinced there is an issue with the wiring of my socket and there are other wires connected all over the place so I reckon it’s something to do with this wiring
Can you post a photo of inside your master.
Disconnect any wiring to terminal 3 as that can cause interference
Are the wires connected to terminal 2&5 then going to extension sockets within your home?
If you don't use any extension sockets, simply remove all the wiring from the master socket with the exception of the incoming external wires.
Found 3 master sockets connected along 1 wire.
So imagine 1 wire. 3 master sockets have been attached to the same wire with no breaks in the wire so each master socket is connect on the wire on A and B.
Should this be changed?
You shouldn’t have 3 master sockets, as the name suggests you should only have 1 master , the other 2 should be extension sockets , only the master socket should have a removable lower section , with a test port behind it, extension sockets should look like image 4.
If you don’t need extensions sockets , the easiest thing to do is disconnect them entirely.
The master socket should be where the line from outside appears , you would plug your router in there, ( assuming you don’t need the extensions ) this will give the best connection, if you need to connect the router in an extension socket the ‘quality’ and way the sockets are connected could impact performance.
If the extensions are required, they should be cabled from the removable lower section of the master socket ( image 1 ) not connected to the A and B terminals , so when the panel is removed the extensions don’t work, the only wires on A and B on the part of the socket remaining on the wall should be the line from outside….the extensions only need terminals 2 and 5 connecting , the first extension socket would have the cable from the removable panel of the NTE master socket , and the cable going to the last extension ( so 2 cables ) connected on terminals 2 and 5.
Thank you.
out of interest why shouldn’t there be more than 1 ‘master’ socket? They’re doing extractor what an extension socket are doing?
I also have a house alarm which is supposed to connect to the socket but which terminals should I connect these 2 wires to?
thanks in advance
A master socket has components that even without a ‘phone’ plugged in , present the appropriate conditions to the line , so should the line be tested from the ‘exchange’, it looks like an ordinary line, a standard extension socket doesn’t have these components, so could give a false ‘faulty’ test result if an extension socket were the only socket connected, using NTE5 sockets as extension sockets could cause confusion as to which is the ‘proper’ master socket ….also a NTE5 master socket gives the ability to easily disconnect extension sockets and wiring that neither Openreach or the provider ( BT in your case ) are responsible for…so should you have an issue , you remove the bottom section of the NTE , if the problem disappears, you know the issue is on something you are responsible for , so ( hopefully ) would not report it to your provider , if you did you run the risk of being charged for a call out.
A British standard NTE5 and or LJU1 will have a 9v Capacitor, Resistor and some of the older ones also have Surge Protectors.
Openreaches Line Test Facility looks for the 9v Capacitor on a Fast Test, if it doesn’t see one then it’ll trick the Test System into thinking there’s a Disconnect on the Line. Although on some Long Lines of 10+ km it’ll not see the Capacitor even if one is there and Openreach Engineers will sometimes fit a secondary NTE, although it’s recommended they remove the Resistor.
Surge Protectors we’re removed from NTE’s a few years ago now as they were known to cause issues with Broadband Circuits and to be honest we’re absolutely useless as Surge Protectors anyway.
Ref to house Alarms, you’re technically allowed to connect it to the back on the NTE A and B Terminals, this is the only time Openreach allow this.
If you do chose to connect them to the front plate though it’s to Terminals 2 and 5.