@licquoricewrote:If you don't need voice, the HG612 will be fine, however, why not consider a combined VDSL modem/router rather than a pure router.
The view among experienced users is that combined modem/routers are not as good as separate devices.
A standalone router will invariably give you a wider choice of features. For example, "combo" devices don't do Mesh networking.
The other factor is that most brands gave up on DSL devices some time ago. There hasn't been anything from Netgear, for example, in years. Standalone DSL have also gone the way of the dodo.
A BT/OpenReach linesman once confided that BT had instructed ISPs to issue combo devices. They are easier to control and manage at the ISP end.
I've been using an Asus DSL-AC68U for years now as a modem/router and recently just as a router (got full fibre😊).
Works very well with my BT FF500 and with an iPhone 11 I can get around 400Mbps of the 500 available.
It's still getting firmware updates and is still a great piece of kit. It's feature list is pretty impressive and good examples can be picked up on ebay for very sensible prices < £40.
Worth a punt I'd say.
And it can form the basis of an Asus AiMesh setup.
Can you explain why you want a new modem? The problem seems to be with your router.
You are on the right track looking for a separate modem that can take a better router. But as you have probably discovered these are few and far between. Netgear's late and lamented DM200 does crop up on second hand sites at reasonable prices, but you don't need one. Stick with the HH2.
Which brings is to this comment:
@Anthony813wrote:The BT Smart Hub 2 does not seem to have a bridged/modem option so I am stuck
You are right in your understanding of the HH2, but you don't need bridge mode to add a better router to the device. And as @imjolly points out, when/if BT forces digital voice on you, you are stuffed if you have a separate third party modem.
My solution is to use the HH2 and to put whatever router you went to use into the DMZ of the HH2. It takes a bit of faffing around but works just fine.
The trick is not to let the HH2 squat on its preferred IP address for your network. That is likely to clash with any other router that you buy. They all like to use the same IP defaults.
Here's what I did with the local IP address:
Then I connected my Netgear router and let it connect to the HH2 to see what IP address the HH2 assigned to it:
Then into the Firewall Configuration of the HH2. Turn on the DMZ and insert the router's IP address there.
The Netgear router should be on its own default IP address 192.168.1.1.
You can use a browser to get to that address and manage the router. You can get into the HH2 on its IP address, the one you gave it.
Those IP addresses are just my preference. If you don't like those, pick your own options.
I did all this a while back and may be a bit confused abut the order of doing things. You may have to restart the network in the usual order at various stages:
You might be able to skip some of those later stages.
By the way, I don't agree with the comments from @iniltous about Powerline devices. At DSL speeds they are fine. I use them for wired backhaul of a Mesh system and to connect smart TV devices. I haven't tried them for gaming but reports elsewhere suggest that with the right plugs Powerline is better than wifi. More reliable, easier to setup and as fast as wifi with a DSL connection.
So this basically makes my smart hub act as a modem and forwards everything to my new router?
No, it's still routing and natting and operating in the IP layer, but it's not doing the heavy lifting.
Has anyone here actually looked up what bufferbloat is, and what causes it(saturating the buffers of routers with too large a buffer for ASDL/VDSL/slow connections)? I only bring this up, because if the cause isn't bufferbloat, changes to modem & router are not going to be the solution.
Great question.
What symptoms does @Anthony813 see that leads them to that conclusion?
Start with the observed problem rather than some perceived answer that might fix it.